Tuesday, November 13, 2012

A Day in Hangzhou, Part 2

Dear reader, if you haven't already read my previous blog post, I suggest you do so before you start reading this one!


Despite the overwhelming number of tourists, walking around West Lake was a very enjoyable experience. The view from the shore was very nice and scenic, and really made you appreciate the beauty of the area:







The grass along the path was covered with this strange web-like film, which I found unusual. I assumed it was to keep the grass safe in the mercurial weather this time of year, but I wasn't certain for sure.



The only vexing part of my walk around West Lake - the large number of tourists excluded - was the tourist buses that drove along the roads, carting tourists to different spots around the lake, and would constantly play the chorus from The Butterfly Lovers' Concerto (梁祝小提琴協奏曲), which is an absolutely wonderful piece of music, but it starts to grate on you after you are forced to hear one short chorus of it several thousand times over the course of a few hours.


Despite the annoying music, I continued to take in the beautiful scenery:





I was walking past what looked like a small shrine when I overheard some Chinese taking about 'fighting a tiger' (打虎), and 'drinking three bowls and not being able to cross a ridge' (三碗不过岗). For most foreigners who speak Chinese, these phrases would have just been some meaningless gibberish, but for me, those terms have everything to do with my interests in Chinese culture. I quickly stopped to take a closer look at this shrine, only to find that I'd stumbled on the grave of the semi-fictional hero whose story I am focusing my master's thesis on: Wu Song (武松). I thanked my lucky star the Chinese are so loud when they speak, otherwise I would have likely missed out on this amazing discovery.






Much more obvious than Wu Song's Tomb was the Zhejiang Provincial History Museum (浙江省博物馆), which much to my amazement was absolutely free to enter. Sadly, large sections of the museum were closed for renovations, but at least I didn't have to waste any money on a ticket:










By the time I was on the far side of the lake, I noticed that there were less temples and traditional Chinese buildings, and a whole lot more coffee shops:





The further I continued along the path, the scenery became much more commercialized and modern-Chinese and much less 'traditional' and touristy-Chinese in look and feel:





Wanting to make sure I didn't miss my train back to Suzhou, I decided to bid West Lake a fond farewell and begin my search for a taxi back to the train station. 


My search for a taxi turned out to be far harder than I'd anticipated, as it was the middle of the day, and I was competing with thousands of other Chinese tourists who also wanted a taxi. It was then that I noticed some men driving pedicabs, or sanlunche (三轮车), simply standing around doing nothing. It turned out that these men were perfectly willing to take you anywhere in Hangzhou for a set price, but most Chinese were too busy fighting over taxis to even give them a second glance. I, on the other hand, was perfectly happy to squeeze into the back of one of these little vehicles to get back to Hangzhou Railway Station (城站). The ride to the train station was entertaining experience by itself, as the little pedicab made liberal use of bike lanes, traffic lanes, and side walks in order to get me to the train station as fast as possible.




In a few minutes, I was at the train station waiting to head back to Suzhou after a fun and exciting day at Hangzhou.


After getting back to Suzhou, I was so pleased with how well my day trip to Hangzhou was that I decided to conquer another city later that week. What city was it, you ask? You'll just have to wait until my next blog post to find out! Until next time!

Monday, November 12, 2012

A Day in Hangzhou, Part 1

Bless me father for I have sinned. It has been twelve days since my last blog post!



It has been a very eventful twelve days indeed, and I intend to blog about it all. The American election took place, with Barack Obama being re-elected. My reaction was, of course, highly analytical and objective, as shown by my Facebook posts:

Totally analytical

On to more important things, however, I decided to take some time to travel outside of Suzhou and see some of the great cities nearby. I decided to go to Hangzhou (杭州) first. For those of you unfamiliar with Hangzhou, the city is famous for a large lake, called West Lake (西湖), that is filled with temples, pagodas, tea plantations, and all-around spectacular beautiful nature, and is easily one of the most popular tourist destinations in China. Many poems have been written about the beauty of Hangzhou's West Lake, and so I very much wanted to see the city for myself. 

At Suzhou Train Station (苏州站)

I was worried about going out to Hangzhou myself, but I was pleasantly surprised by the exceptional quality and user-friendly nature of China's train system. It was very straightforward and simple, and without any fuss I found myself on my hour-and-a-half-train ride to Hangzhou.

My view on the train

China's train stations all provide a taxi service, and so I quickly got a taxi and was on my way to my first site at West Lake, the Leifeng Pagoda (雷峰塔). 








The ancient Chinese escalator was helpful if you didn't feel like climbing the stairs to get to the pagoda!



Leifeng Pagoda is famous mainly due to its importance in a well-known Chinese story called The Legend of the White Snake (白蛇传), which is essentially the story of a young scholar who falls in love with this beautiful woman, who actually turns out to be this snake spirit. There have been many operas, movies, television shows made about this story, enough that there is a well-sized Wikipedia article available on it if anyone is interested about learning more about the  story. The story is also retold inside the pagoda itself through a series of pictures with both Chinese and English captions.


The original Leifeng Pagoda collapsed in 1924 due to mismanagement and disrepair, but was rebuilt in 2002. The original foundations of the building can be seen in a museum below the newly-rebuilt pagoda.



The view from the pagoda offered a spectacular view of both West Lake and Hangzhou. 






I was pleasantly surprised at the sheer amount of greenery around West Lake, by far the most I'd seen since I'd come to China. It was a nice change from the dull grey that dominates most Chinese cities.




I was determined to go out on a boat out onto the lake itself, though I was also determined not to have to squeeze myself into one of the painfully tiny ferries filled with loud Chinese tourists. Thus, I decided to go to the shore and purchase an entire raft all for myself. It cost me far more money than what one would usually pay for the service, but I felt the experience was totally worth the cost.









Of course, my choice to go out alone brought its fair share of bemused onlookers, who were obviously jealous that they could not have their own boat to themselves.

Enjoy your overcrowded boat, plebeians!

I was taken to easily the most famous site in West Lake, the Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon (三潭印月). It is so famous, in fact, its picture was put on the 1RMB note.




I was able to see a great view of the shores on my private cruise on West Lake, being sure to take in the scenery that had inspired so many poets, artisans, and rulers over the centuries. 







Once getting back ashore, I decided to do a large walk around West Lake, going along the major causeways that connect the shores of West Lake. Unfortunately, most of the other 400,000 visitors to West Lake that day decided to do the same.




There was still a lot more to see and experience in my day at West Lake, so much so that I shall conclude it in my next blog post. Until next time!